Clothes and the Man: The Principles of Fine Men's Dress by Alan Flusser

By Alan Flusser

From front flap: "Coty Award winner Alan Flusser is confident that any guy can easy methods to costume with kind and stable style - all that's wanted is the right kind schooling. In 'Clothes and the Man', Flusser units out - by using exact illustrations, either black and white and full-color pictures, and a entire textual content - the fundamental rules keen on advantageous men's costume

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It is the job of the vest, the pleated cummerbund, or the closed double- breasted jacket to keep it hidden. And the recent invention of an all-in-one waistband-cum-cummerbund is simply no substitute for the real thing. The Shirt There are two proper shirt styles from which to chose. The more formal is a white winged-collar shirt with stiff piqu‚ bosom and single cuffs (see the illustration on page 126). The second choice, less formal but decidedly more comfortable, is the turndown collar shirt with soft-pleated front and double French cuffs-yet another sartorial contribution of the Duke of Windsor.

For dark, more dressy attire, one should wear a stiffer collar with sharp points that are straight or widely spread, such as the short cutaway the Duke of Windsor used to sport. M. if one is trying to dress for the evening. COLLAR STYLES Today there is a wide spectrum of shirt collars from which to choose. Of these there are seven that a man can add to his wardrobe, confident that they will continue to survive the whims of fashion. The Button-Down Collar The button-down collar was first introduced in this country by Brooks Brothers, patterned after the polo shirt worn in England.

Often the sleeve is simply tapered in its shape so that there is little extra fabric to tuck into the cuff. But if instead the sleeve has been carefully folded into several pleats and then attached to the cuff, the shirt as a whole has undoubtedly been made with care. In England the custom shirtmakers actually sew small pleats in a complete circle around the cuff. French shirtmakers use a symmetrical pattern, folding two or three pleats into the cuff on each side. Plackets, Yokes, and Gauntlets These three items of obscure terminology can offer further clues to the quality level of a shirt's manufacture.

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