Caring for Your Bicycle: Your expert guide to keeping your by Peter Henshaw

By Peter Henshaw

This step by step consultant is packed jam-packed with info and tells you all you want to find out about taking good care of your bicycle. It covers every thing from the fundamentals of why upkeep issues and which instruments you can use, to important safeguard assessments and extra complicated upkeep projects, even the suitable of add-ons. recommendation on easy methods to alter your motorcycle to fit your needs, how one can fresh it successfully, and the way to maintain it operating in best situation, enables you to get extra amusement out of your bicycle for longer, extra competently, and with the feel of pride that comes from realizing you could repair or hinder difficulties that could come up your self – you may even keep your self a small fortune in fix accounts. With details on upkeep scheduling, troubleshooting suggestion, and electrical bicycles, this ebook is the appropriate better half for each cyclist.

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Extra resources for Caring for Your Bicycle: Your expert guide to keeping your bicycle in tip-top condition

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A heavily used mountain bike, or a commuter ridden every day all year round, will need servicing more frequently. A bike ridden only on sunny weekends will need less. The golden rule is to always keep an eye on things, so that you’re always aware when certain parts are nearing the end of their life – see Safety Checks (p23). Brake pads, tyres and wheel rims in particular, should be replaced whenever they are worn or damaged, regardless of the maintenance schedule. Before every ride Check the brakes work Check quick-release levers are secure Every week • Oil chain and check for wear • Oil jockey wheels • Check crank and chainring bolts for tightness • Check all gears shift accurately • Oil exposed cables • Check inner brake/gear cables for fraying • Check outer brake/gear cables for wear • Check brake pads for wear and alignment • Check brake levers, arms, discs and callipers for cracks Bikes with suspension only • Check front forks for cracks • Oil front fork stanchion, rear shock body and all seals with teflon oil Every month • Check sprockets and chainrings for wear • Check bottom bracket for play • Check pedals for play • Oil rear mech pivots and check forplay • Oil inner and outer brake/gear cables • Check hubs for play and smoothness • Check hub rubber covers for splits Disc brakes only • Check discs for wear Bikes with suspension only • Check fork and shock for play • Check all seals for cracks and leaks • Leave bike upside down overnight so that oil can redistribute in fork Every six months • Replace chain (heavily used bikes) • Replace inner brake/gear cables (heavily used bikes) • Grease open-bearing hubs and check bearings/surfaces for wear • Grease headset and check for wear • Grease brake bosses • While headset is off, check the fork steerer tube for cracks Bikes with suspension only • Replace fork oil • Fork and shock seals should be replaced every two years, but this is a specialist job four Troubleshooting This chapter will help you identify, understand, and fix common problems.

If you are tackling a job you’re unfamiliar with, read through the relevant section first, then get to work, with the book by your side. Hopefully all of this will enable you to get more out of your bike, and maybe use it more often. Have a good ride. Keeping your bike in good shape means you’ll get more out of it. uk), Anna Finch and Bonny Sartin. one Bike basics What everything does Frame Usually steel or aluminium tubing, its job is to support the rider’s weight and transfer his/her power through the drivetrain efficiently.

Screw the cable barrel adjuster in or out until it is at the halfway position. The jockey wheels should be in line with the smallest sprocket. If they’re not, screw the high adjuster (usually marked ‘H’) in or out until they do. Then turn the pedals to check that the chain runs smoothly – if it doesn’t, turn the high adjuster in small increments until it does. Pull the cable through the cable clamp and tighten the bolt. Now shift the chain onto the smallest chainring and largest sprocket. The jockey wheels should be in line with the largest sprocket.

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